Amarapura

A twenty minute drive to about 11 km south of Mandalay will see you in Amarapura the ancient capital of the Konbaung Dynasty and the area from which Mandalay was originally moved. Situated on the banks of Thaungthaman Lake, Amarapura was founded in 1785 by King Bodawpaya, and was known as the “City of Immortals” in ancient times. Its Sanskrit name means “beautiful town”. It was surrounded by brick walls and a moat and was shaped in a mandala square. There were twelve gates to the city, each one being surmounted by a payatthat (“A style of wooden pavilion”). On two occasions (1783-1823 and 1837-1857), this now quiet provincial town was the capital of Upper Burma. The first British Embassy in Myanmar was located in Amarapura in 1795.

Nowadays Amarapura is a small town with a population of about 11,000 and quite frequently called Thaung Myo (“The Southern City”) to avoid confusion with Mandalay. It was once home to a great royal palace and many ancient edifices, but all that remain nowadays are the pagodas and monasteries. Much of the original wall was dismantled to provide bricks for roads, railway tracks and other constructions at the new capital.

Amarapura is famous for its silk-weaving industries. Here you may buy the highest quality silk material with traditional Myanmar patterns and designs at very cheap prices; that is of course if you are prepared to bargain.

Although Amarapura is only a small town nowadays, it still has a wealth of places to visit, including many pagodas and monasteries. For example, an amazing collection of Buddha images and ancient Buddhist scriptures (written on palm leaves) may be viewed at the Bagaya Monastery, a beautiful monastery built entirely of teak wood. Within the city walls you may also see The Nagayon Temple, which has the exterior form of a huge dragon, which represents the NagaMuchalinda, the dragon who protected the Buddha while he was meditating. Another place worth seeing within Amarapura is the famous Mahagandayane Monastery, nea the U Bein Bridge, home of over 700 monks going about their daily chores and duties.

The U Bein Bridge

In order to cross the shallow Taungthaman Lake, a footbridge was built by U Bein, the mayor at the time of the “shift” from Innwa (Ava). Stretching over 1.2 kilometres (about three quarters of a mile), the U Bein Bridge as it is now called, was constructed from 984 solid teak planks and pillars that U Bein was given permission to salvage from the deserted Innwa Palace.

This inspiring bridge is located just south of the Pahtodawgyi Pagoda near Amarapura. The longest bridge of its kind in Myanmar (and for that matter, the entire world), it has withstood two centuries of use and may be used to safely cross over Taungthaman Lake into Taungthaman Village.

Taungthaman Lake, which almost dries up totally during the dry season, usually becomes quite treacherous to cross by boat during the monsoon period due to the large amount of water that streams down into it from nearby hills and mountains. Prior to the advent of the bridge, it was common for disaster to strike as traders in small heavily overladen boats attempted to cross the lake. The story has it that the bridge was built by U Bein to minimise the occurrence of such accidents.  

However, local romance tells another story. U Bein and King Pagan were childhood friends who as young men would often cross the lake at night in order to rendezvous with lovers from villages on the other side of the lake. However as you can imagine this was no easy endeavour during peak monsoon times and hence the idea of a facilitating bridge. Whatever the motives were behind its original construction, one will never know for certain, but the romantic aspect of the bridge can never be denied.

The bridge is known for the spectacular sunset shots you can take from it and offers an inspiring experience for visitors who traverse it. You may also hire a paddle boat to cross the lake in monsoon season. In the dry season between June and November, the bridge actually crosses over dry land but is nevertheless worth crossing anyway, if not for the experience itself.

Pahtodawgyi Pagoda

Situated to the southwest of Mandalay on the west banks of the Ayeyarwady River outside the walls of the city, the Pahtodawgyi Pagoda was built in 1820 by King Bagyidaw. It is based on the Shwezigon Pagoda at Bagan. The history of its construction is outlined on an inscription stone in the pagoda. On the lower terraces, the pagoda follows the Bagan tradition of depicting scenes from the Jataka; however the scenes are sculptured on small marble slabs rather than clay or sandstone slabs. On the upper terrace you can get an impressive view of the Ayeyarwady River and its adjacent countryside.

Taungthaman Kyauktawgyi Pagoda

The Taungthaman Kyauktawgyi Pagoda (not to be confused with the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda built in 1865 by King Mindon at the foot of the southern stairway to Mandalay Hill), was built in 1847. While its exterior appearance closely resembles that of the Ananda Pagoda in Bagan, the interior is radically different. The entrance porches of the Kyauktawgyi Pagoda have wall paintings which have been very well preserved.

The pagoda hosts a huge image of Buddha often referred to as Taungthaman Kyauk Taw Gyi (“the Great Royal Stone Buddha Image of Taungthaman”). Officially it is called Maha Thet Kya Yanthi (“the Great Light of Setkyamuni Buddha”). The Image is carved out of a single slab of marble and is surrounded by many interesting stupas. The Image was made during the reign of King Bagyidaw (A.D. 1819-1837), who personally assisted in many stages of its creation, from its quarrying and sculpting in the Sagyin Hills to its consecration, all carried out with full religious rites and ceremonies. Over 5000 people participated in transporting the Image to the capital. It was moved to its present location during the years of King Pagan (1846-1853).

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Innwa (Ava)

If you go down-river from Mandalay approximately 20 km southwest, you will find yourself near the ancient city of Ava which is now known as Innwa. Although Innwa is on the same side of the Ayeyarwady River as Mandalay and may be reached by following the river around, it is much easier and quicker to take a river taxi across the Myitnge River and then hire a horse and cart (at a cost of about 1500 kyat) over to the town. The town is situated just south of the confluence of the Ayeyarwady and Myitnge (Dothtavati) rivers. An artificial channel known as Myittha Chaung was dug from the Myitnge on the south to the Ayeyarwady River on the west. This effectively turned Innwa into an island.

Innwa was founded in 1364 by King Thadominbya. At that time it was known as Ava. The location of the city was of vital importance because it lies at the gateway to the vast rice fields of Kyaukse. The outline of the outer walls did not adhere to the usual convention of being rectilinear. Instead, their somewhat zigzagged contour is thought to represent the shape of a seated lion. The inner citadel, which has since been reconstructed on at least three occasions, was carefully laid out and constructed following traditional esoteric principles of cosmology.

Ava has been the capital of Upper Myanmar on two occasions, flourishing as a major cultural and commercial centre for over three centuries. It was the capital of the entire Burmese kingdom from 1636 when the whole of Burma was controlled from within its walls. The whole of Myanmar was often known by the outside world as Ava, such was the importance of this city. Officially it was referred to as Ratanapura meaning “The City of Gems”.

Burmese arts, crafts and architecture within the city often took their own course in some respects during the Ava period. This was due in part to fewer contacts with India than there were in the Bagan Era. For example, a more uniquely “Burmese style” of sculpture started to evolve. Ava sculptures had their own “rounded” style that did not adhere to the standards of the Bagan era. Typically, Ava images were made entirely of marble, which was easily available for quarrying in the not-too-distant Sagyin Hills. Ava painting styles also evolved. More pigments were introduced, resulting in more vivid paintings than were seen during the Bagan period. Likewise, stupas and pagodas were built more out of wood than the traditional brick and stucco.

In 1838, the city was almost totally destroyed by a huge earthquake that shook much of Central Myanmar. The city was abandoned in 1841 when the capital was shifted a short distance further north to Amarapura by King Shwebo Min. The days of glory of Ava had come to an end.

Innwa nowadays is a quiet little town that keeps to itself and goes about its mundane and simple business, a far cry from its former glory and the enormous power that was once wielded from within its walls. Only a few of the buildings that made it famous are still standing as most were either destroyed by earthquake or dismantled for use in the new capital. Steeped in history and abounding with fascinating legends and stories, Innwa is still very much a popular tourist destination and offers the visitor a lot of cultural and historical sites to see.

Innwa (Ava) Bridge

A few kilometres south of Amarapura, the 16 span Innwa Bridge is over one kilometre long and reaches between Amarapura and Sagaing. It was the longest bridge in Myanmar until the Thanlyin Bridge was opened in 1993. Although it is known as Innwa (or Ava) Bridge, it doesn’t actually pass through Innwa (Ava) at all. Built in 1934 using British engineering techniques, it was the only bridge to span the Ayeyarwady River until 1998 and was a major route to neighbouring India. On the Mandalay and Innwa side of the bridge, one can still see the Thabyedan Fort, which was built by the Burmese as a last defence against the British during the third Anglo-Burmese war in the 19th century.

Innwa Bridge played a very strategic role during the Second World War and for that reason was partially destroyed by the British in 1942 and put out of action, in an attempt to halt the advance of the Japanese across the river. The bridge wasn’t made operational again until 1954 when it was finally repaired. It also carries a railway line across the river. A toll is now charged for cars to go across.

Nanmyin Watch Tower

The Nanmyin Watch Tower, sometimes referred to as “The Leaning Tower of Innwa” on account of its precarious lean, is a 27 metre (90 feet) masonry tower that was once part of the original royal palace built by King Bagyidaw. It has since been renovated.

Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery

One edifice of interest is the Maha Aungmye Bonzan Monastery (or the Meh Nu Ok Kyaung Monastery as it is sometimes called), built in 1818. It was built by Meh Nu, one of Bagyidaw’s queens for her royal abbot, Nyaunggan Sayadaw. This monastery features massive staircases at each of its entrances that were typical of monasteries of this era. Another feature that was not standard for that époque and area was that fact that it was built out of brick and plaster rather than wood. The monastery was damaged by the 1838 earthquakes. It was later restored in 1873.

Bagaya Kyaung Monastery

The wooden monastery of Bagaya Kyaung was built at a later period than the masonry Maha Aungmye Bonzan but it is no less impressive. Built in 1834 by King Bagyidaw, it is made entirely of teak and has eight huge brick staircases. The monastery is supported by 274 huge teak pillars, some of which measure up to 18 metres in height and nearly 3 metres in circumference. The pagoda is famous for its exquisite carvings.

Le Thagyi Pagoda

The 14th century Le Thagyi Pagoda in Innwa has an interesting legend attached to its origin. The story goes that the queen at that time had a dream that featured many animals, something that is often seen as a very bad omen in Burmese culture. In order to protect herself she sought the advice of a guru. She was instructed to build a special pagoda that was surrounded with figures of ogais (“little ghosts”). Thus the special square-shaped Le Thagyi Pagoda was constructed on her orders, with the ogais surrounding all the terraces of the pagoda. Each carved face on the ogais is different.

Other Things to See in Innwa

Not far from the Le Thagyi Pagoda, one can visit the 700 year-old Lawka Htut Phaung and Su Taung Pyi pagodas. Here visitors have the chance to see the stages involved in making the famous bowls that monks use to beg for alms.

There are many other pagodas and monasteries to see in Innwa. Also worth seeing is the Htilamgshin Pagoda which was built during the Bagan era, many centuries earlier. There is an inscription in a nearby shed that outlines the construction of the palace during the first Innwa Dynasty. The remains of the massive four-storey Layhtatatgyi Pagoda may also still be viewed in the southern section to the city.

Visitors may hire a horse and cart and pass through the walls of the ancient city. There are many ruins of old farms, villages and ancient pagodas to be seen within the ancient city walls. In the northern section, the walls are still in quite good condition. You may still visit the northern gate facing the Ayeyarwady that was known as Gaung Say Daga (“The Hair-Washing Gate”). This is the area where members of the royal family had their hair ceremonially washed.

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Mandalay

Mandalay City

Mandalay, situated on the Ayeyarwady River some 650 kilometres north of Yangon about 260 feet above sea level, is today the second largest city in Myanmar and has a population of about a half a million people. Accessible by air, rail, road and river from other parts of Myanmar and surrounded by ancient royal capitals such as Ava, Sagaing and Amarapura, Mandalay has become a popular base from which travellers explore much of Upper Burma. Also frequently known as Ratanabon-Nepyi (or Yadana Pon) meaning “The Gem City”, it has almost transformed into the poet’s Myanmar and has inspired the likes of Kipling to write about it charms.

Mandalay is a must-see for any tourist as it is regarded by many as the craft and cultural centre of Myanmar. It is also an important centre for traditional Myanmar music and dance. In addition to having many places of cultural interest and numerous impressive monasteries and nunneries to visit, it is also packed with places and edifices of historical significance. Mandalay is thus a bustling hive of cultural and commercial activity.

The region is renowned for the skill of its craftsmen, such as its silk and cotton weavers, wood carvers, stonemasons and silver and gold embroiderers, all of whom still employ ancient methods carefully transmitted from generation to generation. As a result, Mandalay boasts a rich assortment of crafts to this day.

The regions around Mandalay have for many centuries been the hub of cultural, commercial, political and religious activity in Myanmar. During the eras of the monarchs of Myanmar, the area was home to various kings. The area hosted four different capitals of the country, including Ava (now known as Innwa) in 1364, Sagaing, Amarapura from 1783 to 1823 and again from 1837 to 1857, and the city of Mandalay itself in 1857.

Mandalay was founded in 1856 after King Mindon moved the city of Amarapura just 12 kilometres north to the present location of Mandalay, fulfilling Lord Buddha’s ancient prophecy that a town would be founded at the foot of Mandalay Hill. One story has it that King Mindon actually moved the capital away from the Ayeyarwady River in order to move out of range of potential enemy fire. It would have been possible for Europeans or other perceived enemies of that time to attack the capital (ie. Amarapura), by bringing artillery upriver via ship. Shifting the capital away from the river was one way of avoiding this scenario.

In keeping with traditional Myanmar ways of moving capitals, almost the entire town of Amarapura was literally dismantled, transported and then re-constructed on the new site. This was not as difficult as it might appear as many secular buildings were made from wood. It was during this time that the palace and most of the city’s monuments and pagodas were constructed.

Mandalay was captured by the British in 1886 during their occupancy of Myanmar. During British occupancy the Royal Palace was used as a garrison by British troops, and dubbed “Fort Dufferin”. During World War 2, the city was almost totally destroyed. Its former splendour and glory has since been partially restored, particularly that of the magnificent Mandalay Palace, which had been destroyed by fire and bombing during the war.

Even though it has now lost its status as a capital, Mandalay still remains a cultural giant among Myanmar cities. Buddhist monks known as “phongyi”, still come to Mandalay from other regions in Myanmar to study the Buddhist scriptures.

Things to See in Mandalay

For the traveller, there is always something fascinating to experience in every part of Myanmar, and Mandalay is no exception.

At places like Mandalay’s jetty, an area that is always bustling with energy and activity, one may witness water buffaloes dragging huge teak logs from bamboo rafts and cargo boats to storage spaces along the banks of the river. Not far from this scene, at eleven a.m. every day one may witness thousands of monks sitting down to their final meal for the day at Mahagandhayon Kyaung Monastery.

One may then view the KandawGyi (or Great Royal Lake), a man-made lake commenced during the First World War, before proceeding onto one of an almost infinite number of historical sites, pagodas or monasteries that may be visited in the area. In the evening, there are night bazaars to visit as well.

Mandalay Hill

Mandalay was named after its most prominent natural feature, nearby Mandalay Hill, which has a height of 236 meters (and 1,729 steps to get to the highest accessible point by foot). It offers some excellent panoramas of the city and adjacent areas (including the distant Shan mountains and the Ayeyarwady River). The hill is dotted with many pagodas and monasteries and is the point about which the Gautama Buddha made his prediction about Mandalay. There is a huge statue of the Buddha at the top of the hill. The hill is thus considered very sacred to Buddhists and for this reason, shoes are not permitted. It is now possible to reach the top of the hill by car as a road has recently been completed.

Mandalay Palace

Mandalay Palace was originally built in 1857 as Mandalay was being founded. It was huge in size despite being constructed largely of wood. Huge teak pillars supported many sections of the palace. Surrounded by finely built, thick red brick walls and a moat, it was destroyed by fire and subsequent bombing by the British during the Second World War.

The grounds of the palace are huge, covering about 8 kilometres of land, but access to the grounds is strictly limited to only certain areas (one must enter from the eastern section), as they now function as a military garrison. Within the grounds there is now a cultural museum called Nanmyintsaung and a restored replica of the Royal Palace called the “Myanan-Sankyaw Golden Palace “. It contains within it replica of the “Lion Throne”, the original of which one may see in a museum in Yangon. One may also dine at Pyigyimon (“The Floating Restaurant”) in the moat.

Shwenandaw Kyaung “Golden Palace Monastery”

To the east of the palace is located Shwenandaw Kyaung or the “Golden Palace Monastery”, the only part of the original palace that escaped destruction by fire in the Second World War, apart from the magnificent walls, palace gates and moat which circumnavigate the compound. The reason for this was that in 1880 King Thibaw had it shifted section by section to where it stands to this day. He considered it a bad omen to use it for his own private quarters given that his father had died in the building. He consequently donated it to monks as a monastery.

Made entirely of teak, it is renowned for its intricate wood carvings of Buddhas and other figures, as well as its gold leaf decorations, all of which were completed over the course of about 4 years by some 60 men. Another interesting thing about this building is its cleverly designed raised boards located at each entrance which forced people to duck as they entered (thus “bowing” to the king inside).

Kuthodaw Pagoda (the Largest Book in the world)

The Kuthodaw Pagoda was modelled on a similar pagoda at Nyaung U and built in 1877 by King Mindon after the Fifth Buddhist Council. It has within its walls an unusual and very holy relic, what is thought to be one of Lord Buddha’s teeth.

The pagoda has another more popular claim to fame; it is the location of the “World’s Largest Book”. Having enlisted the aid of some 2400 monks to interpret the entire Buddhist Canon (known as “The Tripitaka”), King Mindon then had it all edited and inscribed onto huge “pages”. The “pages” consist of 729 four-foot stupas (“upright marble slabs”) which surround the pagoda, covering an area of about 4 square kilometres.

The Shwe Kyi Myint Pagoda

The Shwe Kyi Myint Pagoda is one of the most ancient pagodas in the area and contains many gold and silver images that were rescued from other ancient ruins within the area. It was built during the reign of the Bagan King Monshinsaw during his reign from 1114 to 1167. It has remained essentially unmodified in any way to this very day and is truly a reflection of ancient Myanmar.

The Mahamuni Temple

The Mahamuni Temple is one of the most popular and lively temples in Myanmar, drawing daily crowds of pilgrims (and vendors) from all over the country. It has in its courtyard the largest triangular gong in the world but that is not the reason for its highly venerated status. The pagoda is considered to be the most sacred in Myanmar because it is home to a highly venerated 3.8 metre-high (12 feet and 7 inches) sitting image of Buddha, referred to as the Maha Muni Buddha Image or Phaya Gyi (“The Great Image”).

Said to be cast in the very presence of Lord Buddha himself, this “icon” originated in Cambodia in the 1st century. It was captured by the Thais in 1431 and recovered from Myohaung (Mrauk U, a town in Rakhine State) by King Bodawpaya when he conquered the Arakanese in 1784. Shortly thereafter he had the Mahamuni Temple built.

Buddhists believe that this image is “alive” and that the expressions on the face of the image actually change, as legend has it that Lord Buddha embraced it seven times and breathed on the image in its post-completion stage, bestowing power on it. Thus the icon is highly revered by Buddhists and the face carefully washed every morning at 4 a.m. by monks. Although the bronze face has not been altered, the body has been covered with a thick layer of gold-leaf, which may only be applied by men. Offerings of flowers and incense as well as food and water are made every morning to the Buddha.

The Mahamuni pagoda is also home to an interesting festival which falls on full moon day in Thabodwe and lasts about 2 days. Incense is burnt for the Buddha Image on the full moon day. During this festival the pagoda really comes alive with energy and is filled with activities such as sticky rice contests. Many people from all over the country make the pilgrimage to the temple for this special festival.

The Atumashi Kyaung Pagoda

The Atumashi Kyaung (or “the incomparable” or “inimitable) pagoda which was built in 1878 by King Mindon is another pagoda which has been restored (in 1996). It was partly damged in 1890 after a huge fire ripped through it. It is famous for the silken Buddha image inside, which has a huge diamond on its forehead.

There are of course many other pagodas to visit in Mandalay itself and it is unlikely that visitors would get time to visit them all.

Arts and Crafts Factories

Few places in Myanmar compare to Mandalay for the quality of their cultural craft. Tampawathy, situated on the outskirts of Mandalay, is one place in particular where you may purchase craft products of the highest quality at some of the cheapest prices in Myanmar. Bargaining is the norm in this area. Craft workshops abound in this area, so all types of products are to found, from Kalaga tapestry and silk and cotton weaving to wood and marble carving. One may also see marionettes being made in some craftshops.

One fascinating aspect of Mandalay craftwork is the classical (and very difficult) art of gold-leaf hammering, which can also be seen and purchased here, at quite competitive prices.

It is not only Mandalay itself that offers a lot for the visitor to see. The areas surrounding the city are also speckled with places of interest.

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Mingun

Mingun is located about 11 km (7 miles) upstream from Mandalay on the western bank of the river and is only accessible by a river-trip. The best way to reach it is by a 45 minute boat trip from the city. Tourist boats depart every morning at 9 am and return 4 hours later.

The trip to Mingun is as enjoyable as sightseeing around the town itself. Taking the trip provides the visitor with an excellent opportunity to observe the simple village lifestyles of the Burmese people as they go about their daily business. The journey is also quite picturesque, with many opportunities for interesting photographs along the way. The observant visitor may truly gain a deeper insight into the lives of average humble Burmese countryfolk.

You can see many traditional Burmese bamboo houses on the banks of the river and in verdant fields in the distance. On the river itself you may see many women doing their daily washing in the river on floating platforms while their children play nearby. You may also see all kinds of boats in the area, some of which are not often seen in other areas. In the fields nearby, you might catch an occasional glimpse of locals ploughing the fields using antiquated eighteenth century style ploughs dragged along by oxen. Oxen and cart are the usual means of transport in the town as they are in much of the entire surrounding area.

Upon reaching the arrival jetty, there is a small fee (about $3) to enter the town but it is a small price to pay for the many items of interest you may see therein. 

Mingun Paya Pagoda (Mantara Gyi Pagoda) – The Unfinished Pagoda

Although Mingun is not specifically known for its pagodas, it is home to one or two that are of particular interest. Overlooking the Ayeyarwady River, you may see the incomplete Mantara Gyi Pagoda, which is sometimes also known as Mingun Pagoda or “The Unfinished Pagoda”.

King Bodawpaya’s original plan was for it to become the largest zedi in the world. Unfortunately instead, it now stands as possibly one of the largest piles of bricks on the planet. The planned height of the pagoda had been a massive 530 feet. It stands instead at less than a third of its intended height at a 162 feet (50 metres); still impressive but obviously not the huge landmark it was first envisioned to become.

Work on the pagoda began in 1790. Slaves and prisoners of war were set to work realising the king’s vision. Obviously none of the king’s offspring shared his vision for the pagoda because work on the pagoda was halted in 1813 and did not continue after his death in 1819. The pagoda was damaged by earthquakes in 1838 and the upper levels of the pagoda collapsed into the base. In addition, the solid base split as a result of the earthquakes creating huge cracks.

Although the pagoda remained unfinished, it is nevertheless still quite impressive and definitely worth visiting. The structure with its huge 95 feet high chinthes (“mythical lions”) with nine feet wide eyes at the front of the monument, are testament to the architectural skills of the Amarapura era. You must enter the pagoda bare-foot, so a climb to the top is not easy. It is however worth the effort as there are quite spectacular views of the Hsinbyume Paya and Mingun village and the river to be seen from the top.

One may also look at a 5 metre high model of the Mingun Paya which allows visitors to see what the pagoda would have looked like had it been completed. This model pagoda is referred to as the Pondaw Paya. Downstream from the model is the Settamra Pagoda, built in 1811 to enshrine a footprint of the Buddha which was brought to Mingun by King Bodapwpaya.

Mingun Bell

Mingun’s main claim to fame is the fact that it is home to the world’s largest uncracked ringing bell, known as the Mingun Bell. The bell is located near the Mingun Cedi on the west bank of the Ayeyarwady River facing Mandalay. It was originally intended to be a fixture to the huge Mantara Gyi Pagoda but never made it there given that the pagoda was never completed. It was placed in new tazaung (“supports”) close to the riverboat landing after the original supports were damaged by the 1838 earthquake.

Cast on the small island of Alei Kyun near Mingun on the orders of King Bodawpaya, the bell took three years to make. Casting commenced in 1808 and was completed in 1811. Although it was first estimated to weigh about 80 tons, a more likely weight based on calculations is a hefty 90.5 tons (55,555 viss). The bell is made of bronze, but it is said that the Buddhist smiths also added gold, silver and jewellery to the bronze while they were casting the bell.

The bell is 12 feet high (11 feet 6 inches internally) and the diameter of the mouth is 16 feet. Its thickness varies between 6 inches and 12 inches. The Guinness Book of Records of 1982 mentions the Mingun Bell as being the “Largest functioning Bell in the World” (page 238). Its weight is given as 101.4 tons. There is supposedly a larger bell in the grounds of the Kremlin in Moscow but it is cracked.

Visitors are welcome to strike the bell three times for luck. In order to have good luck from the bell, it is said that you must strike it an odd number of times. Many people actually climb inside the bell and get others to strike the bell while they are inside.

Hsinbyume Pagoda

Also known as the Mya Thein Dan Pagoda, this splendid, circular, white pagoda was built just north of the Mingun Pagoda in 1816 by King Bagyidaw in memory of one of his wives, princess Hsinbyume. The pagoda is based on the famous mythical Sulamani stupa on top of Mount Meru. Surrounding the stupa are beautifully crafted undulating terraces that lead to the central stupa. They represent the oceans that surround Mount Meru. The upper terraces are representative of the seven lesser mountain ranges below Mount Meru.

In the pagoda, there is a large Buddha image at the top of a steep beautifully decorated staircase as well as a small chamber which may be accessed by a tripartite staircase descending eastwards. The pagoda was damaged in 1838 by earthquake but was rebuilt in 1874 by King Mindon.

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Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo)

The city of Pyin Oo Lwin is situated 70 kilometres (about 42 miles and a pleasant 2 ½ hour drive by jeep) to the east of Mandalay in the foothills of the Shan Plateau. The city is located in an area that is a junction for travellers on their way to the border towns of Lashio and Muse. Its altitude is over 3,500 feet (about 1100 metres) above sea level, so it is therefore considerably cooler than the surrounding areas, even in its hotter months. It is therefore often seen as a refuge from the sweltering heat of Mandalay. Its breathtaking views of the Mandalay plains are said to have inspired the writing of Rudyard Kipling’s “The Road to Mandalay”.

You would be forgiven for thinking you had been whisked over to England upon entering Pyin Oo Lwi. This town is a tourist attraction even for Myanmar people who consider it to be a very un-Burmese town. During the British occupation of Burma, the area was used as a hill station by the British and known as Maymo (May Myo) by Britain and the outside world during that time. It has always been referred to as Pyin Oo Lwi by its inhabitants, although it is also often called Pan Myo Daw (“the Royal Flower City”), on account of the colourful varieties of local flowers and plants that can be seen growing perennially throughout the city.

Although the city’s name has reverted back to its native form, much of the British legacy in the city remains, such as the colonial architecture seen in Tudor style buildings that dot the landscape. Many of these English style cottages have been converted to hotels and guesthouses, such as the “Candacraig Hotel”, an English country home, set in beautiful and serene grounds. This was once the bachelor quarters for workers of the Bombay Burma Trading Company before it was converted into a hotel. The old English stagecoaches of the colonial period still operate as taxis and give the town an atmosphere of the 1800’s rather than of the 2000’s.

While in Pyin Oo Lwin, it is also worthwhile taking a ride on an old horse drawn cart to visit some of the fascinating places in the city. In addition to being home to the popular Botanical Gardens, Pyin Oo Lwin also hosts other attractions such as the Pye Lone Chan Tha Pagoda, a recently built temple that houses a mysterious Buddha image. Another popular tourist spot is the colonial style town centre. The Purcell Clock Tower in the centre was given to the town by Queen Victoria, and has an exact replica in Capetown in South Africa, also donated by the monarch. There is also a 100-year-old Christian church in this town, the Church of the Immaculate Conception, which has a plain brick exterior which does no credit to its beautiful cruciform interior and belltower. Another temple of interest is the very colourful Chinese Temple built by Yunnanese immigrants.

The Botanical Gardens

Pyin Oo Lwin is widely known for its beautiful Botanical Gardens, located to the north of the city. The gardens have a bewildering variety of beautiful local and not-so local flora to behold and are well maintained. Near the gardens is a man-made lake known as Kandaw Gyi (“the Great Royal Lake”) which provides a water source for the gardens. The Gardens are best visited in December and January when the cherry trees are in blossom.

The lake was dug in the early part of the 20th century. Locals discovered that there were natural springs in areas of the gardens, so authorities decided to build a dam in order to put the spring water to good use.

The gardens had their origin in the activities of an English botanist called Mr Roger, who cultivated local plants and trees on about 30 acres of land in 1915 to 1916. The government officially sanctioned the gardens in 1919 and declared them a forest reserve in 1920. Thenceforth began the collection of more and more exotic local and international flora in the gardens. Today the gardens are spread out over an impressive 350 acre and boast more than 5000 different types of plants and trees, many of which were shipped in from abroad. There is also an orchid greenhouse within the gardens. A stroll through the gardens is a quite pleasant and horticulturally enriching experience even for the less-green-fingered visitor.

Around Pyin Oo Lwin

There are one or two places in the area surrounding Pyin Oo Lwin that are worth while seeing. Many travellers enjoy taking the early morning train through the surrounding hill areas to view the sunrise which is quite spectacular when viewed from the hills.

Peik Chin Myaung Caves

About 10 kilometres south of Pyin Oo Lwin towards Lashio, you can find the Peik Chin Myaung Cave (also sometimes called Peik Khyin Myaing), which were developed first by local Nepalese and later from 1990 on by the government. The cave serves as a Hindu and Buddhist shrine and has a series of scenes from the life of the Buddha as well as models of famous pagodas and stupas. There is a long path that leads through the cave. There is also is an underground stream nearby.

Pwekauk Waterfalls and Peik Chin Myaung Maha Nandamu Underground Spring

Not far from the caves, you can see the beautiful three layered Pwekauk Waterfalls. During British colonial times, these were called the Hampshire Falls. Not particularly impressive in the dryer months, the falls are a popular spot with tourists and locals alike for picnicking and swimming in the rainy season. The lower sections of the falls have a quite strong undertow so swimming there is not recommended. During the wet season, the waterfall is quite amazing to watch.

There are also a number of tribal villages in the vicinity on the way to Pwe Kauk. The Shan villages of Mogyopyit, Yechando and Ye Ngeye can be visited (by a bullock cart if you are willing to try something different) and are noticeably different from other villages in the area.

Another place of interest in the area is Anisakan Falls, which is located about 2 kilometres from the village of Anisakan. Although it is quite a rough hike to get to the falls (one needs to descend a river gorge for about an hour), the effort is well rewarded. There are 5 sections to the falls of which the most impressive is the third.

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Sagaing

About 21 km downstream of Mandalay on the west bank of the Ayeyarwady River, you may find the quiet area of Sagaing close to the Sagaing Hills.

Sagaing was founded in 1315 by Athinkhaya Sawyun, the son of King Minnanthu of Pinya. It became the capital of the Sagaing Dynasty during a period of total chaos in central Myanmar after the fall of Bagan. For about 50 years, it was the centre of an independent thriving Shan kingdom until 1364 when the capital was moved to Innwa by Thado Minbya. It was also declared capital again in 1760 albeit for only a short period of 4 years.

These days Sagaing is far removed from its earlier days of glory. It is nowadays known more as a place of pilgrimage for monks, nuns and other followers of Buddhist philosophy and meditation. Myanmar Buddhists often come to this area in search of a place of peaceful reclusion, away from the hectic pace of the larger towns and cities.

Sagaing Hills

The Sagaing Hills are dotted with over 600 pagodas and monasteries and for many years the area has been regarded as a cultural and religious centre in Upper Burma. Each of the 37 hills of the range has its own historical name and legends to go with it. Historically, the hills were often used by locals as a place of refuge from invaders.

Soon (Swan) Oo Ponyashin Pagoda

There are so many diverse pagodas, monasteries, nunneries and stupas strewn all over the Sagaing Hills area that it would be would be nigh impossible to visit them all, so many visitors opt instead to visit the Soon Oo Ponyashin Pagoda, which was contructed in 1312. It is said of this pagoda that no human may offer the earliest alms to the pagoda, because there will always be alms at the altar from someone else who offered it earlier. From this pagoda, you get a quite spectacular view of the entire area with many of its treasures visible all in one. In particular, the sunset over the Ayeyarwady River is quite beautiful from this lookout point.

Kaunghmudaw Pagoda

The Kaunghmudaw Pagoda is situated about 10 km (6 miles) northwest of Sagaing. The name of the pagoda translates roughly as “The Pagoda of Royal Merit”. In Pali, it is called Rajamanicula. Based on the Mahaceti Temple in Sri Lanka, this enormous pagoda was built in 1636 by King Thalun of the Nyaung Yan Dynasty to commemorate the declaration of Ava (Innwa) as capital once more. The pagoda is dome-shaped, rising 46 metres (151 feet) in a perfect hemisphere, with a circumference of 900 feet. The base of the pagoda is surrounded by 812 five feet high pillars of stone, each of which have a niche for an oil lamp. Every late October, lamps are placed in the niches, as part of the Thadingyut Light Festival which marks the end of Buddhist Lent.

The grotesque lotus-bud shape of the pagoda has oft inspired the telling of a ridiculous story in which its shape was decided after one of King Thalun’s queens provided her exposed breast as a model. The story is, of course, total nonsense and fully unsubstantiated but has led some guides to refer to it rather sacrilegiously as the “Breast Pagoda”.

Not far from the pagoda is Ywahtaung Village, famous for the high quality of the silverware which is produced there using traditional techniques. Visitors are usually welcome to enter the workshops and watch the silversmiths at work, making anything from silver bowls and containers to jewellery. Silverware may also be bought here at quite cheap prices.

The Thirty Caves Pagoda

Just north of the Soon Oo Ponyashin Pagoda, the Umin Thonze (“Thirty Caves”) Pagoda is located on Sarmayee Hill (or Suvannapatta Hill), the 24th hill of the Sagaing Ranges. This hill was named after four-legged animals called Sarmayee that were said to inhabit it in ancient times.

In earlier days it was claimed that on the hill, one could find all types of weird and wonderful rocks and plants, and in particular, a medicinal plant that could turn bronze into a white metal.

Local legends tell us that there was a 14th century monk called Sangha Raja who liked to dabble in the ancient art of alchemy. Whilst experimenting with metals and chemicals found on the nearby hills, he allegedly stumbled upon the secret to longevity. He thus retired to the hills to seek the dhamma (“teachings”) from the Meteya Buddha. Sangha Raja was guru to King Taya Phya (A.D. 1322-1336 of the Sagaing Dynasty) and King Thado Minbya (A.D. 1364-1367 of the Innwa Dynasty) whilst he dwelt on the hill.

Sangha Raja then had the Thirty Caves Pagoda constructed, a series of 30 caves cut into rock, representing the 10 parami (“perfections”) that Buddha had achieved in his ten penultimate lives (times three). Each of the caves has its own entrance. There are 45 Buddha images inside the caves, from east to west in a crescent shaped colonnade. They supposedly represent the 45 years of Buddhahood of Gautama Buddha. The 39th image stands out from the rest, being carved out of the rock wall. It has a peculiar background of figures of zawgyi (“alchemists”) amid scenes of forests and caves that has led that many to surmise that this was the actual cave where Sangha Raja meditated and performed his alchemy.

The Thirty Caves Pagoda has been renovated on numerous occasions, the earliest documented renovation being in 1643. It was almost totally destroyed by the 1838 earthquake but was restored to its former glory by King Pagan, the restoration being completed in 1846. It was also renovated again about a century later and today is a major tourist destination in the area. 

Other Sagaing Pagodas

One or two other pagodas one might want to check out are the Padamyazedi which was built in about 1300 and the Tilawkaguru Cave Pagoda which has mural paintings dating back to 1672, when it was built. There are a multitude of other pagodas that can be visited in the area each with their own splendour and cultural interest.